Camino sucks – getting away from the car roads | Camino del Norte from Cudillero to San Pedro de la Ribera – Day 23

On the Day 23 of our Camino de Santiago del Norte we got from the village Cudillero to San Pedro de la Ribera beach in Asturias.

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We finally decided to take our first day off and stay in the camping L’Amuravela in Cudillero. We felt like we needed it a lot by our physical state. And it was even weird not to wrap up our tent and staff in a day it was already like an everyday habit. But it felt so nice. We explored a little bit of this fishing village which was very unusual located in the couloir. Some houses were really old and were threatening to fall down in any moment. We walked to the port area which was quite big for such a village and walked further to the pierce. The lighthouse was beautiful as well and we got some scenic views over the cliffs and the village. The weather was windy and cooler than the last days. And the ocean was wavy and appealing. But for the most part we just ate, rested and relaxed for that day.

We started the day at the camping L’Amuravela lazy and not rushing much after our rest day. Looking at the map we saw that the Camino for the most part was following the car roads and wasn’t really getting close to the coast so we as always were ready to do the alternative route by using our gps maps.

All the first part was terrible when we got off from Cudillero all the way to La Magdalena. We were forced to walk on the very fast car road where there wasn’t even a place for pedestrians. It was very dangerous and stressful and we promised to ourselves that we won’t follow this trails anymore and if we would see that there aren’t any alternative route to escape – we’ll take the bus or train. It is neither enjoyable nor useful for filming. We decided to do that for the sake of our health and more beautiful footage. That way we’ll have time to shoot scenic viewpoints and beaches than endless asphalt roads. We didn’t want to stop the Camino we wanted to continue but from now on following our own rules. Because we already got sick and tired of the same roads kms and kms straight.

After La Magdalena we got out to the beach Concha de Artedo and then our ways with the Camino got separated. We walked through the village Lamuño and Salamir, had a quick snack at the very nice forest area for picnics ¨area recreativa de Monte Valsera¨.

Then we got out to the viewpoint of the Beach San Pedru de la Ribera. The view was fantastic from there. All that distance we walked on the asphalt car road but at least there weren’t busy at all so we could walk peacefully and we got several ocean views along the way in comparison with the Camino. Also we found another local trail with a blue wavy sign and we’ve been following it most of the time. But without gps it would be quite hard we must admit.

The weather was very nice and comfortable to walk – sunny but not hot thanks to the fresh wind. But overall we felt it got colder the last days and we had to sleep wearing hats and all the warm clothes that we have. Our sleeping bags lowest temperature is 10 degrees and it was already getting to the limit.

So we got to San Pedro La Ribera where was our camping . But checking it from the above when we were on the opposite hill we saw no signs of life and also no one was answering the phone – that was strange so we were ready that it might be closed. There was a big chance.

But first we had to buy the food and the nearest supermarket was in Soto de Luiña where we headed straight away. After we’ve done the shopping we’ve seen some pilgrims and saw some Camino indicators so we guessed that we crossed with it in this place.

Then when we knocked on the camping door it was obvious that it was closed and we had to find the stealth camping spot for the night. We got out to the beach and cooked our dinner there.The beach was in a stunning location between the mountain cliffs and had a spacious zone for caravans and camper vans and also a picnic tables all around. It was a place where the river flows into the ocean.

It was the moment when we wanted to have a camper van to be allowed to camp on that flat perfect meadow. That is always the struggle for a backpacker – you aren’t allowed to camp in most of the places though the damage you can possibly do in spending one night at a place is minor. We feel it is very unfair to all of us.

So we had our dinner and started our search for a camp spot. The area was very difficult with lots of rocks and the beach was in couloir between the cliffs. So we had very little choice. There were just few fields close to the beach and we found our place there. Even though there was a car route going very close but we saw that it wasn’t in an often use. And hoping that nobody will disturb us that night we went to sleep.

Here is the link to Google map to follow the hike: