On the Day 25 of our Camino de Santiago del Norte we got from Cadavedo village to the town Luarca in Asturias.
We woke up really early that day to be in time to catch the train. It was our great motivation. We wanted to travel 2 stops and to get off on the station Caneiru so that we have more time to explore another beautiful cliff. And also we saw that most of the trail was on or near the road and we didn’t want to walk all that distance. So we got ready as quickly as possible and rushed to the train station.
We waited for the train for about 20 min and it never came so we had to call this magical phone again to order the bus. We were quite dissapointed that we didn’t travel on the train as we were so looking forward to it. This time the bus came very fast we didn’t wait long for it.
And after 10 min on the road we were at the place. We saw the other pilgrims walking along the road where the bus was going and also the signs of the Camino so we got sure that we did it right skipping this part.
In order to get to the viewpoint of Cabo Bustu we had to wander through the private houses of the village Bustu which was very similar again to the others that we’ve seen the last days. The particular thing that we’ve noticed about the most of the houses in the area is that they have no gate or their gate is always open. Sometimes there are no borders of the territory at all and it merges with the surrounding fields. It was very unusual to see.
Then we got to walk along the cypress alley getting through the fields. And we thought to ourselves that it would be so nice to have this kind of alley in sunny hot days in the fields that we had so many already with no shadow at all. We met a beautiful horse on the way that came to greet us and finally started to see and hear the ocean waves.
The weather was very humid and foggy at first merging the sky and the ocean together. But due to forecast it should be clear soon so we just waited having a seat at the edge of a cliff and had a snack there.
The viewpoint was right at the lighthouse same as the previous one with a very similar construction because we guess they were built in the same years. We waited for a good hour for the sun to establish and then could take lots of pictures of the place. It didn’t get perfectly clear there was some fog in the distance but nevertheless we could enjoy the view, splendid structure of the cliffs and rocks in the water as well as of the other cliffs further in the distance. We saw our previously visited cliff looking back and our destination Luarca lighthouse further in the distance.
After spending some time at the spot we continued our way along the Cabu Bustu because we knew there will be 3 more viewpoints to come. First viewpoint gave us a view from a distance at the lighthouse proudly standing at the edge of a solid cliff that we’ve been to just now , from the second viewpoint we saw the little secluded beach among the rocks, to the third we walked through the peaceful quiet forest paths that we enjoyed so much. After so many town and road noises it felt like therapy. And it gave us another spectacular view of the ocean and the beach that was quite big – we even saw the surfers there when normally because of extremely rocky coast we haven’t seen them in a while.
That day we followed from time to time the local trails with the blue sign and another white and yellow ones but they seemed to start and stop out of nowhere. So we used our gps navigation and everything was alright. We were getting away from the ocean to cross the pedestrian river bridge and go under the highway. We met the Camino signs again and followed them for some time. There we had our uphill of the day – very steep and rocky one but we were already glad it was going in nature and foresty paths.
Then we walked along the highway for several kms and met a guy who lost his way and we assured him that he’s going in the right direction. It was weird because there were indicators on the way. Overall on the way we noticed that there are a lot people using some written guides or books instead of gps that is so convinient and quick and for us it’s a freedom of choosing our trail and turning away from the trail if needed.
Then after some time we turned away from Camino because we wanted to get to our camping before entering the town Luarca. We got there pretty quickly, on the way we met absolutely beautiful place beach – Playa Portuzuelo that unfortunately was in the fog and we saw it in black and white colours. But the rock formations there looked like from the fairytale castle, like an entrance to the medieval castle.
After doing a steep uphill we got to the Camping Los Cantiles. As always we wanted to have a look around the camping to choose the place we wanted but the receptionist was angry at us and said that it is absolutely prohibited to walk in the camping before checking in. That was very strange to us. Then they accompanied us to our parcel and waited until we decide which one we liked the most. This kind of pressure we don’t like so we were quite dissapointed with their service. But after we had a stroll in the town Luarca for doing our usual grocery shopping we started to understand better why they were so strict to us. When we walked out of the camping we saw right away the districts of the town that were very typical with ugly dirty houses and hardware buildings. Also we’ve noticed too many police cars driving around all the streets so we guessed that it was for a reason. Soon it was getting dark and we didn’t want to stay on the streets so we quickly went back to the camping.
Here is the link to Google map to follow the hike: